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Forearm isometric fatigue-resistance in climbers is superior to resistance trained athletes and aerobically trained controls when matched for grip strength

Conference Paper


Abstract


  • Introduction: This study compared the forearm isometric fatigue of rock climbers (RC) to strength-matched resistance trained (RT) and aerobically trained (AT) athletes.

    Methods: AT (n=6, 23±1y, 77±1kg), RT (n=7, 24±1y, 80±3kg) and RC (n=8, 25±2y, 74±2kg) completed three forearm fatigue protocols (sustained MVC, sustained 40% MVC [3mins], intermittent 40% MVC [5s contraction, 5s recovery, 3mins]) and a controlled forearm occlusion (5min) assessment. Physiological measurements included grip force, EMG and NIRS.

    Results: Forearm flexor thickness and MVC were equivalent between groups (P>0.05). Sustained MVC force (time to decline 50% MVC) was longer in the RC versus AT (AT: 35±5, RT: 46±6, RC: 54±4s, P<0.05) and both RT and AT for sustained 40% MVC (AT: 56±9, RT: 62±8, RC: 87±7s, P<0.05). Reduction in MVC was less in RC post intermittent 40% contractions (P<0.05). Oxygen desaturation half-time was longer in the RC versus AT (AT: 65±9, RT: 86±7, RC: 99±7s, P<0.05) and this was associated with time to 50% MVC (P<0.05, r2 =0.53) and time to 40% MVC task failure (P<0.05, r2 =0.30).

    Discussion: RC had superior isometric fatigueresistance compared to RT and AT athletes matched for MVC and muscle thickness. An improved oxygen cost during controlled ischemia partly explained these adaptive responses to training.

UOW Authors


  •   Peoples, Gregory
  •   Nolan, Jordan (external author)
  •   McLennan, Peter (external author)

Publication Date


  • 2018

Citation


  • Peoples, G. E., Nolan, J. & McLennan, P. L. (2018). Forearm isometric fatigue-resistance in climbers is superior to resistance trained athletes and aerobically trained controls when matched for grip strength. 4th International Rock Climbing Research Association (IRCRA) International Congress (pp. 1-2).

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Abstract


  • Introduction: This study compared the forearm isometric fatigue of rock climbers (RC) to strength-matched resistance trained (RT) and aerobically trained (AT) athletes.

    Methods: AT (n=6, 23±1y, 77±1kg), RT (n=7, 24±1y, 80±3kg) and RC (n=8, 25±2y, 74±2kg) completed three forearm fatigue protocols (sustained MVC, sustained 40% MVC [3mins], intermittent 40% MVC [5s contraction, 5s recovery, 3mins]) and a controlled forearm occlusion (5min) assessment. Physiological measurements included grip force, EMG and NIRS.

    Results: Forearm flexor thickness and MVC were equivalent between groups (P>0.05). Sustained MVC force (time to decline 50% MVC) was longer in the RC versus AT (AT: 35±5, RT: 46±6, RC: 54±4s, P<0.05) and both RT and AT for sustained 40% MVC (AT: 56±9, RT: 62±8, RC: 87±7s, P<0.05). Reduction in MVC was less in RC post intermittent 40% contractions (P<0.05). Oxygen desaturation half-time was longer in the RC versus AT (AT: 65±9, RT: 86±7, RC: 99±7s, P<0.05) and this was associated with time to 50% MVC (P<0.05, r2 =0.53) and time to 40% MVC task failure (P<0.05, r2 =0.30).

    Discussion: RC had superior isometric fatigueresistance compared to RT and AT athletes matched for MVC and muscle thickness. An improved oxygen cost during controlled ischemia partly explained these adaptive responses to training.

UOW Authors


  •   Peoples, Gregory
  •   Nolan, Jordan (external author)
  •   McLennan, Peter (external author)

Publication Date


  • 2018

Citation


  • Peoples, G. E., Nolan, J. & McLennan, P. L. (2018). Forearm isometric fatigue-resistance in climbers is superior to resistance trained athletes and aerobically trained controls when matched for grip strength. 4th International Rock Climbing Research Association (IRCRA) International Congress (pp. 1-2).

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